Bringing Home A Second Cat
Contrary to the thoughts of some, “catastrophy” as a word does not come from the introduction of a second cat.
– Anonymous
GENERAL RULE: Eventually, hostilities will decline … eventually.
The introduction of a second cat into a home can be a challenging experience for both the cats and you. Strays generally will be more competitive and territorial, as opposed to a home-raised kitten which may grow up to be a bit shy and fearful adult. The more the introduction deviates from the ideal (meaning following the tips provided here), the more it may become a protracted affair. With minimal grounds for conflict, the cats will become friends … well, at least tolerate each other. The advantage could be yours if the new cat/kitten is younger and sexually immature and a member of the opposite sex from the resident cat.
The reality is that there is often little choice. So, be prepared for a prolonged introduction. With time, understanding, patience and a few tips, the ordeal can result in success. Oh, and no catnip during this process as it may intensify negative emotions.
Here are some tips:
1. Prepare for a carefully orchestrated introduction, as most cats will not readily accept a new cat coming into their lives. When you and the new arrival come home, put the new cat in a safe room (the room can be a bedroom, a bathroom or a laundry room), as the first, and most important, step is to allow the new cat to get comfortable in its new surroundings. Don’t allow the old cat in the room for the time being.
2. Have patience. You can’t rush what won’t be rushed. Work on preventing confrontations as you next allow the old cat access to the outside of the door of the room where the new cat now resides. There will be sniffing soon followed by hissing, paws under the door, more hissing and growling and subsequent lurking near the door. This will take a couple of days. Try bringing the old cat away from ithe door with playtime, treats and the promise of anything. It won’t matter. It won’t work. Be satisfied there are no weapons of mass destruction nearby.
3. After a couple days have gone by, rub a small rag or piece of cloth all over the old cat, to pick up its scent. Then place it in with the new cat. Watch the reaction. Hissing is normal, but if the new cat seems to accept its presence praise it and give it a treat. Then do the same thing, only use a different piece of cloth (Caution: Forgetting to use a different piece of cloth can be dangerous to your health)and rub the new cat, then place the sock near your old cat. Hissing is likely to occur. Praise your cat and give it a treat when it calms down after shredding the piece of cloth.
4. Leave the pieces of cloth with the two cats for several days or until they calm down significantly. When both appear calm you can procede to the next step – allowing them to see each other but not get at each other. Then, place your old cat in a room (such as the bathroom or laundry room) temporarily. Allow the new cat to come out and explore the house on its own without your old cat seeing it. Once the new cat has checked the house out, put it back in the sanctuary room. Now allow your old cat out and watch its reaction. It may become very upset, as it can sense that another cat was on its territory. Allow several days for your old cat to get over it. If your old cat had a good (meaning none) reaction, proceed to next step. If not, repeat.
5. If you have a chain lock that will allow the door to be opened just enough for each cat to see each other but not get at each other, use it. Leaving the door an inch or two ajar will allow the two to acclimate. If you don’t have a chain lock, try using a couple of baby gates (the kinds you see that prevent a child or dog from getting into a room) and, stack one on top of the other in the doorway between the sanctuary room and the other room (you will need two because cats can jump high). This will do the same thing as the chain lock but gives the two a greater sense of sharing the same territory. Don’t have a chain lock or baby gates? Then keep the new kitten/cat inside a portable carrier (used to transport animals to the vet). It will work, but not as well. If the reaction is bad, shut the door and try again later. If this appears to work, proceed to the next step.
6. Place both cats in the same room, but at opposite ends and stay present to “officiate” the eventual meeting/confrontation. Don’t interfere unless you witness a major penalty (full attack). Expect some batting and hissing. After 10 minutes or so, call a truce and separate the cats. Repeat this process a couple of times a day for a week (or two if there is still tension.)
7. When, and only when, the visits are without tension and you can witness some positive interaction (playing, sleeping closer to each other, etc.) should you allow permanent, unsupervised cohabitation.
Good luck! Remember, this takes effort and time. Don’t get frustrated and don’t give up. Mutual respect is hard enough for humans … cats are … well, cats.
Revised 12.25.2008
jep