Destructive Scratching

“I met a traveler from an antique land
Who said– “Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert.”

                                          –Percy Bysshe Shelley, Ozymandias

“Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair!’
Nothing beside remains.”

      -Percy’s Cat

GENERAL RULE:      If a cat has its claws, it is going to scratch.  It is a normal behavior that can’t be stopped.  The operative question is, “Where?”

 IDENTIFYING PROBLEMS:

 There are many reasons why a cat might scratch, including:

•  Marking their territory with the paw’s scent glands;
• Marking their territory with the visual scratches;
• Working off excess energy;
• Removing the buildup of the dead outer layer on claws;
• Simply stretching and flexing its feet and claws

 RECOMMENDATIONS:

• Observe your cats scratching behavior – What does it like to scratch (height, texture, location)?
• Purchase or build alternatives – Purchase a rope-wrapped post, or acquire a log for a cat that likes to rip on a Berber rug, or a corrugated cardboard for a less firm texture.  Stabilize the objects so they won’t fall over and place them near the cat’s current “targets.”  Slowly (about three to four inches per day) move the alternative items to a more suitable location.
• Dissuade your cat from scratching “targeted” items – Cover them (the objects, not the cat) with something unappealing, such as double-sided tape, aluminum foil, or use a spray designed to repel them (be careful with sprays, however).  Also, old sheets or towels can provide some protection.
• Consistency – Keep objects you have covered, well-covered.  This is going to take a month or two, so don’t cover the “targets” one day and not the next.  Once the cat has accepted the alternatives, begin to remove coverings one at a time (over a couple of weeks).  If the behavior begins to return, you are probably moving too fast.
• Punishment – Don’t play “Dirty Harry.”  If you catch your cat in the act, make a loud noise (shake a can with coins inside) or squirt the cat with the “bolt from heaven” technique (that means, don’t let the cat know it was you).  If the cat begins to associate you with punishment, you will have a new set of problems with which to deal.
• Trim your cat’s claws – About every two to three weeks is a general rule for trimming claws, but be careful only to trim off the tips of the claws.  Don’t count on trimming to solve the clawing behavior although it may help some.
• To declaw or not to declaw – This is a procedure that results in the amputation of the end digit and claw on a cat’s paw.  While not recommended and the Humane Society of the United States opposes it for simply the convenience of the owner, it is a regularly practiced procedure at veterinarian clinics.  If you must have the cat declawed (rather than dispose of your cat), then at least try to have it done when the cat is neutered/spayed.  Only have the front claws removed, as the rear claws are needed for defense and climbing should the cat ever get outside. Follow the vet’s advice about what to do after surgery.  Remember, a declawed cat is and should forever be an indoor cat.

 SUMMARY:

 Clawing is natural behavior, but can be destructive if not addressed.  The best approach is to protect your home’s assets by covering them with material objectionable to cats while providing acceptable alternatives (scratching posts, etc).  Be patient and consistent as behavior modification takes a month or more.  Some clawing problems may require professional help.  Discuss alternatives with your vet.  Making a loud noise or squirting with water only works when you catch the cat in the act.  Other forms of punishment aren’t understood and do more harm than good.  Finally, trim your cat’s claws regularly and if you do decide to have the claws removed, as a last resort, try to do it when the cat is spayed/neutered.  Declawing is making a moral commitment to essentially keep the cat as an indoor pet.  Don’t take the step lightly.

Revised 1.03.08

jep